Shoes



vJESSE K. THISSELL, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSGNOR, Bil? vllls'fl11F-3'5" T0 UNITED SHOE MACHNERY CORPGRATOL 0l? PORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SHOE ano Mormon 4or Maximo serons.-

i ,sesame Applicatomtled December 28, 1915.

Be it known that Jnssn K. Txussnms. a citizen of theUnited States,residing at' Lynn, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts,have invented certain lmprovements in Shoes and Methods of MaltingShoes, of which the 'following description, in connection with theaceon-ipanyitmr drawings, is a specification. like reference characterson .the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

rThe present invention relates to improvements in the nanulfzu-tnre ofshoes and more especially it7 concerns the manutiu'ture of shoes ol thetype'connnonly termed turn shoes in the manufacture of which the shoeuppers are secured to the soles while they are inside out, the shoesbeing therea'lter turned right side out,

It is a common and universal practice in the manufaeture of turn shoesto provide shoe upper stiilening: elements such as eounter elements o1'heel stilleners or toe hoxes to assist in lmaintaining,T the shapedesired and support for" the shoe, these stitfening elements beinginterposed between Athe layers of .the yupper materials as hetween theup er and the lining. i

Xn object of the present invention is to improve the manufacture of turnshoes hy providing for separately incorlmrating pren viously shaped shoeupper stifi'enine' elements in the shoes to the end that turn shoes mayloe produced more economically and elliciently at the same timeimproving' the fit and appearance of the shoe.

The present: invention is herein set forth by way of illustration withparticular ret'erence to the, incorporation ot previously moldedcounters or heel stitleners. although it is to be recognized that theinvention is not limited thereto.

In the manufacture offiurn shoes as now made, it is the usual practiceto employ a substantially flat umnolded leather counter or heelstiflliner Vfor the'shoe. 'lhe method ordinarily followed inincorporating.l this kind of a counter in the shoe, onsists in,thereafter arranging' the counter between the shoe upper and lining'.assembling' the upper inside ontJ upon the last, and attaching theupper` counter and lining to the shoe sole. the counter` prior to itsincorporation in the shoe, heinggrendered pliable by @inheritedtempering it with moisture, Then.. after the first last. is withdrawnand the shoe turned right side out and relasted. the counter isconformed to the contour of therheel portion of the last, theshoesremaininfr on the second last until the counter has dried 'to theshape imparted. to it.

Such'dleather counters or heel are expensive and eon'deralole time andlabor are involved in coi'rlforn'iinygrthe shoe upper and the counter tothe desired shape i about the heel end oit' the and in allow ing the toremain on the second last a suiicient length of time to enable it. todry into shape. Thel use olil previously molded counters in themanufacture turn shoes is, however, recognized as being very deA snaolebecause of their perureinen-tlg`vl in flexible character andelleetiveness as slargo Aln one of its aspects the present inventioncontemplates a novel method olf incorpo-A rating a previously shapedupper stillening element in a turn` shoe which consists in assembling ashoe upper haring a lining inside out upon a last, together with asoler` lasting tue shoe and attachingP the Ya and lining; tothe sole andleaving; the me; lniattached to the sole around au end por tion ot theshoe. in cm'poratingI a. nailded upper stillening element in the saidend poe tion of the shoe prior to the completion oi" the operation of'turning' the shoe right side mit., completing' the turning of the shoeright side outy and disposing the said upper stili'eningr elementJbetween the shoe upper and the, lining and thereafter relastinp; theshoe and performing subsequent operations to' complete its manufacture,ln practice the molded counter is preferably first located on the solein the linal position it is to occupy in the completed shoe in whichposition it is attached to an underlyingpart of the shoe. before theshoev is turned riejh'' side out. To provide for disposing the counterbetween.

ber to which they are connected beingl tacked to the sole within thearea of the heel seat.

lt will be observed that although as herein set forth the presentinvention provides tor incorporating; a counter in the shoe constructionbefore the shoe is turned right side out regardless of whether in the11i-nnu- 'tacture oit' the shoe the method herein eX- empliticd ispractised in its entirety, the invention yprovides a novel product atone in the manufacture of a turn shoe, a shoe construction eomprisiugashoe upper wroiiiu side out, a sole 'to which the upper is connected,and a previously molded counter uttueheil in upright position to theheel end of a solo as illustrated in Fig. :2. s illustinted l? il, theinvention further provides en product at another stage in the aeture otu turn shoe which comprises n shoe upperA inside out, e sole to whichthe upper in connected, a previously molded counter located on the heelend of the sole in the relative position it is to occupy in the iinishedshoe, a heel member to which the iorwnrd ends or wings of the counterare secured, and i'astenngs attaching the countei' through the said heelsent member to the noie. lt is to be understood, however,- that the stepproducts herein defined may or may not he obtained by following indetail and in order all the steps herein described. Subseniiently to theincorporation of the molded neunte. in the shoe construction theoperations performed comprise, in accordance with the process oi' theinvention, withdrawin@1 the lirst last 6 and then turning the shoe as tobring` the upper right side out with the upst ding; oninter disposedbetween the shoe upper and the lining. According to the ennemi practicethe oi'epart of the shoe is 'et turned, as shown in Fig. 3, and then theheel portion of the shoe is turned.' ln turning the heel portion of theshoe the lining; 4f which is not secured to the sole 8 at its heel endis first pulled upwardly over the counter l2 in the manner indicated inFig. :i which also turns the upper 2 upwardly over the counter. litterthe upper 2 has been turned right side out about the counter the liningt is turned in over the inner face of the eoisnter thus disposingthecounter bere of the counter is preferably coated with cement is toprevent the lining from ivrinltling' and the lower marginal edge ot thelining is turned out onto the heel seat piece and .secured preferably bycement. The silber-,mirent operations ou the shoe to complete itsmanufacture follow those now generally practised and include inserting a'tween the upper and the lining;` The inner second7 last in the shoe,together with a shank stitlener member which will overlie the inturnedmargin of the lining on the heel seat piece and the attachment of. aheel to the shoe. Itwill be noted that the turning oli the shoe upperright side out does not distort or strain the counter 1'2 from the shnpeoriginally imparted to it so that when the shoe is relested the counterconforms to the heel end of the last and no further conforming andshapin r operations are necessary. Furthermore 1t will be seen that themethod of making turned shoes above described does not involve anymaterial leparture from the methods heretofore enlployed in manufacturinturn shoes and a better tting and more s apely shoe is produced.

lt is to be understood that while the invention is herein illustrated inits application to the incorporation of a molded counter inl n turnshoe, the invention is not intended to be limited thereby but is ofgeneral utility in the manufacture of turn shoes wherein it is desiredto incorporate a shoe upperfstiii'ening element in the shoe upper.

Having described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure byLetters Patent of the United States l. That improvement inthe art ofmaking turned shoes which consists in attaching an upper inside out to-asole, attaching a counter which is molded to the final shape desired inthe finished shoe to an underlying part of the sole, turning the shoeright side out, und then linishing the shoe in the usual manner.

2. That improvement in the art of Inaking' turned shoes which consistsin attaching an assembled upperinside out to a sole, posit-inning` amolded counter on the shoe and attaching it to the `sole, turning theshoe right side out and arranging the upper outside the counter vand thelining' inside the counter, and then finishing the shoe in the' usualmannel.

3. That improvement in the art of making turned shoes which consists inattaching an upper and lining inside out to a sole,

providing a counter which is molded to the final shape desired in theinished shoe, permanently attaching the counter to the heel end of thesole in the relative position it is to occupy in the shoe, then turningthe shoe right sideout and arrangingr the upper outside the counter andthe lining inside the counter, and thereafter finishing the shoe in theusual manner.

4. That improvement in the art of inaking turned shoes which consists inattaching leaving said lining unattached to the sole at its heel end,tasking a molded counter in upright position on the heel portion of thesolo; turning the shoe right side out and k an upper nndlining insideout to la sole,v

" ilioil il' iis lo oeeiipv iii the finished shoe. "ling ille eouillel'lijf illsleningjs insel'lell h 'lle hol-ioni iliel'e iiii'o the lleelenll oi ille sole7 lui'iiinj 'lie shoe riglhlV Tide oui in sl-.eli nli'liiei' :is lo iill'eriloue ille eounler he- "illey shoe, in lilleusuill nluiiilei.

' :li` iil'lirol'eiiieill in ille :irlY of nulle inl; #lilies whieheolisixs in :iwl `li'illliilgr :l ysolo willi l:in upper :lud lininginside oui' on :l

eselfui'iilg: l'lie iiiliiel' lo ille, sole eoill- "E v :ir-:uuid uiliilSole 'und Heeuringf ille lo il'le sole ihrouglhoul he i'ioreillirlV lullHluliillx :il'l'llelliilg' :l ilei'nlsliienily inflexille eouner lo illeheel end oi ille sole in llle rl A Jlon il' is lo oeeup'i'iil illeiinifihed shoe. lzui'iliie' ille shoe, righi iside oui Euler; ouiillfluuid eouilier llei'ifeen ille :zii i 'fe llos,

" :ind llie upper. relI ille :dine und lllilsl l-iuliueiliieili' loirlil lie ,i llloiiiid Suid sole :will e, .iriil,- 'lie ille Solelhrougfllou' llie l'oreilllrt .in ilr oiE ille sole. providing :l previlinolflell eoiiililel' lleivinl :l lioiiuiii iii iieiiilzlileni'ljiilii'llilelliiu); yuuid eoiiiuer lo lhe hee-l eiii'l ol'ille solo ill l'he i'elli'live posi- ''ioll ily iii fo oeeiiily in illeiinihell, shoe hy i5 'l'zlsleiiinggjn infiel-*led hiougjli sliidllo'lioin pieee :lilil inl'o Lilie Sui-el, iiJii-liilizliiiiile illelill-ih i' i"llin;l` illey lloreiillr' oi" ille shoe righi side oiii/l'ileli lliziiiliiig lhe i ver sind lining over ille, eouilier so :li:to interpone lille eoliiier gli hellll'eeil ille lining anni lipilei;reins-aline; the, Shoe :lud l.'iizuelileilil); Heeiiriiigl' 'flle free,iilzll lioriioil o lle lining; i'o l'lle upper 7^ 3 llolil in *pillen oflille. eiliiiil'ei.

. l iillproveineliii in ille :ii'ii of nulle b unil Shoes il'llielleonliisis in eliselnllling :i lwlloe upper willi ilu lining; oulsiilelli-loll :i lil-eil wiizll ll solo, liisiinp; i'lle shoe. lill lle"'ille upper :iilil lining to l'lle j ille lining unzitllelied to 'he 30u i i :in end iler'ioil of the shoe., iu

ingla x 'llle lining und ille rippen sind lheil ..\llue. in the ufulnliiillnuel;

'ille oounl'rrg will :il'tnelinlenl heilig maille h v disposing illesllill upper sliiiening elemen between The dille upper und ille, lining.and llllereiilfer rehlsliilg ille shoe ind perfor ing subsequentoperations in the usuel menillel'. l

il. Thad; inlproveilent'in *die lli't oil' illilliiiig urll Sheenv whicheoilS-i in iil :ltllielling li shoe upper with ill lining inside out ioil solo but leaving ille liningl iillllllllclled lo the gole lll'ouildllle heel eild of the shoe, iiieor porllting; :l illoldelleoullier illits linlll relative position in the shoe prior to the conlillelion 'ol'llle operation ol turning the shoe right ide out, and completing `l'lleturning; of theI shoe right' side out und disposing the eouiller betweenthe upper :lud the lininll :ind herelll'ler performing eilbliequelitopside olli. :nl l disposin 'die eouiiter lle'wiV-n ille uiliiel' :indthe liiiiiili'. un

il, lhzilv li'oi'eillenl; in lle llll/ ing; l'iii'li wllieh eoilsililriiii. :l :l shoe upper, ineludinl the liiliii,D oui lo :i isole hillleavingv ille liniilj lllelled lo 'llle Hole around l'lle heel elrilloln loeziiiiig :l inolded eollnler oil ill end o'lllle sole,lltillelliilg he counter o "l solo ill :i inziniler .lo lix the positionof lll iorivlll'd exirenliiies of the couille-r, Ylirilin 'lle .shoeright :side oui :ind disposing il eounler between 'lhe upper :ind illelining.S :llld lherelil'ler ilerlol'nlill;` subneqliel nilerillions onille shoe in ille usual nlll niern rl`lllltinlilrovelneili ill the :riing'lfllrn shoes which eouaists in iltiliehiiigg shoe) lippen includingthey lining` inside out4 lo insole, hilll leavingl lille liningnunilinailed lo the sole around ille heel eiill of "he shoe loeiitillgli, illolded'counter hllvill :in iilllrileil l'lilng'e on 'lle l ole inthe pe iion il; il; lo oeeuilj.' in ille eo'lllplelell Shoe, iii; lieille,

se eul'innA the opposie ililnllee` nl ille eoulller lo :l heel Seul'ineinher :ind nililinfgj illey heel Heili nleinloei' to ille lgolewilhiirl'lie heel welll". :irez: oi" l'lle slloln ilii'iliilgf llie Vlioe iigfh'lV l\ide oul' liilll lliupuniie ille eouill'el hel'ween illeuililei' :ind ille lining. liiiil lhereliler new iurlnii'ili'suhseiiuen, oilerlllious on alle shoe in ille. usuali lililiiliel'.

in. 'illlli illillroienleiii in he :ivi: of nlzilru iil'i iliiii shoeswliiell eoiisiiiis in lliliielliilg Al posil'io'il of ille iioi'wlirdextrellliiiea` of :fil

"w m :a Hole around Hm heel and of h@ Shoa, )mmf Y a :molded counte unth@ Soie im h@ posijtml ii in' i0 occupy in thc wmpeed` who@ Mmrhlng Hw,@nds u? the ('mmiim. which )m- ,fauvwan'dly 01 the heel breast line toiin@ fiole by means so arranged um t0 ap- ;gfemi' en the ex'ror nshedsurface mi tlm show imning the sho@ righi side out and dispuang h@counter between he Shoe, up

gm- :mf tlm lining, and thereafim percfomw slm@ upper, including thelining, inside out;

lng the subsequent @parutions upon the sho@ in the usual marmer'.

if Sin ccupy in the cmuplezed salme.

l5, il Siep pmuct in the, manufuutur@ of hmmag/2:

n. turn Sno@ compgrsug an uppex" Wrong am@ out., a soe, the upper undsole. wf-,ing s@- cmfed ogeher, a, zxnldadcolmter locaied in uprightpmiitioin on the wel und fsf tha sole, :u imei seat membi no which thefo'wm'd @uds o the cmmter ae secure, :md fastenings for attaching the@Gunter m th@ sede.

` 16. ik #iep pmduct in the umnufacture of turn show vompx'isng un upperwrong :side out, u hole, the, uppeif und the sole being securedtbgguther, a amlded counter seated in uprigla 'pusam ou file heal "0ndth@ Scfe, l heal sont mmbm- Lstzwhed to d'1@ counter amd 'Hemmingsnel'ted 'iluough th@ Said heel .wat Huf-anbei* and inw H19, Soie to abtach the munt@ t@ the som 'n testimony whe'eof l'. have signed my nameto this Specific-Mom

